How do you make a jig for a laser engraver?

Measure the product, draw a pocket at that size with a finger notch, array it across a sheet that fits your bed, and cut it on the same laser. Computer Creationz does this in LightBurn with ¼ in plywood.

How much clearance does a laser jig pocket need?

On Computer Creationz’s 100 W CO₂, cutting at the measured size was enough, because the kerf adds the room. Cut one test pocket on your machine first.

What material should I make a laser jig from?

Thin plywood works well. The video uses a 24 × 24 in sheet of ¼ in plywood.

How long does it take to set up a laser jig?

Once it’s built and saved, Computer Creationz sets his up in under a minute, usually 30 to 45 seconds.

Laser Cutting & EngravingSetup & WorkflowRepeatable jigs

How do you make a laser engraving jig for batch work?

If you engrave the same product twice, don’t eyeball it twice. A laser engraving jig is just a sheet with product-shaped pockets, cut on the same laser. Computer Creationz builds one that holds 18 power banks, and loads it in 30 to 45 seconds.

⚡ Rule of thumb

Cut a pocket jig on the laser at the product’s measured size, add a finger notch to each pocket, array as many as the bed holds, and keep the design simple.

Starting point

Pocket = caliper-measured size (kerf adds the clearance) · ½ in finger hole · ½ in spacing

Measured

Product drops in without wiggle and lifts out with one finger

Confidence

Creator technique

▶ Source video — Making Laser Jigs the Easy Way — Computer Creationzwatch on YouTube ↗

Applies to

Process: CO₂, diode and fiber lasers in LightBurn
When: Batches, repeat products, odd-shaped items
Jig stock: ¼ in plywood, sized to the bed (24 × 24 in in the video)
Shown on: Thunder Nova 35, 100 W CO₂

Why it matters

Lining up 18 items by hand is slow, and one of them is always a hair off. A batch drifts and you find out on the expensive part.

Pockets fix that. The jig is cut by the same machine that engraves, so every pocket is already where the file says it is. Drop the part in and the art lands in the same spot every time.

And it doesn’t need to be fancy. Computer Creationz’s whole point: jigs can be as elaborate as you like, but the simple ones are faster to make and faster to use.

What good looks like

Each part seats one way, in one position, with no wiggle
Every pocket has a finger notch to lift the part out
The jig is labelled with what it’s for
Loading the jig takes under a minute

How to apply it

Measure the product with calipers and draw the pocket at that size. On his machine the kerf gives just enough drop-in room.
Draw a ½ in circle on the pocket edge and weld it in as the finger hole.
Draw the engravable area as a tool-layer box and snap it to the pocket’s center.
Group them and use LightBurn’s Array tool. He runs 3 columns × 6 rows at ½ in spacing for 18 pockets.
Draw the jig stock’s outline on a frame layer that doesn’t output, and center the array in it.
Add an engraved name, a horizontal reference line and alignment targets, then cut it.
Test fit a part: it should drop in, not wiggle, and lift out by the finger hole.

Test it on your setup

Before cutting all 18, cut one pocket in scrap and drop the part in. Your kerf isn’t his kerf. Too tight or too loose, adjust the pocket size and try again.

Exceptions & tradeoffs

One or two pieces? Burn an outline on scrap instead. A cut jig pays off when you’ll run the product again.

Bigger laser, bigger jig. He notes he could have added a fourth column for 24. The method doesn’t care about size.